Electrodes to the water or water to the electrodes

[CJMOSS]

[mrgalleria]

[stanlives]

[mrgalleria]

[glenn_aircooled]

[CJMOSS]

The issue of heating became a real problem when I increased the electrode area (V 1.1 my project page). It was not boiling, but the current load at the connections was melting the ABS. ABS can take boiling temps. I tried a ballast resistor in line, but the thing really heated and the electrolyzer still acted like a dead short, even reducing voltage to 6 v going to the electrolysers (3v in series each) was too much. When I reduced it by adding two ballast giving about 1.5 v each, the thing would not produce much. For the time being, the smaller electrode (washers) produces just as much gas without the electrode connections melting the ABS. I'm looking for the PWM, but I really don't know what it is (due to no background in electronics). A potentometer for automobile interior light dimmer just cooked in seconds. I'm 99% sure that I had no short in the construction of the electrolyzer. I built a virtual dead load device, chuckle. That is what got me to thinking about using that heat for circulating the electrolyte in Version 2 (yet to be designed).

[mrgalleria]

Aloha CLMOSS,
What are you using for electrolite? If you are adding anything to the water, can you decrease the amount? Too much additive to the water can contribute to excessive conductivity, producing heat. Rather than using that heat to circulate the water, you would be much better off eliminating it at the source. I think this fact has been mentioned numberous times on this site.
Can you drain the liquids and add current to see if it flows through, or stops? This will tell you if a short is present.
Just mentioned these things as sometimes they get overlooked,
Bill

[mrgalleria]

Aloha CJMOSS,
I looked at your project page and noticed you use large screw-on caps. Those can be hard to get on and off, and hard to test for leaks too. I use screw in plugs which when tightened usually sit a little below the coupling. Testing for leaks is a simple matter of dropping a little water on top. And they have a square nut on top which is also nice for big pliers. I use marine wheel bearing grease liberally on the threads which acts as a sealant and aids removal significantly.
Hope this helps. Bill

[CJMOSS]

When the problem first showed, I took it apart to replace the cap. I centered the electrodes on the drill press, then tested continuity. Banged it about to see if there was short produced.
You're right about the caps. They are not dry thread and need to be "worked”. It's not the cap but the ABS adapter thread that is rough. I use a silicone Ultra blue sealer. I put a vacuum pump on them for leaks. That's on the bench. Of course, they get to weeping once over heated. Lesson: no more penetrations through the side on the next. I like the grease idea.
The electrolyte is potassium hydroxide at about 2% solution.
The area is 60-sq. in. for each electrode. Possibly the 3/16" stainless threaded rod can't take the load. The problem goes from negative to the positive. The first in the series (from positive) had fewer problems.
I tried the ballast resistor (automotive type) in line from positive, then inline from negative, then on both. I'm satisfied of the futility of the ballast approach.