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OUPower.com • View topic - The wrong quick way to get better gas mileage

The wrong quick way to get better gas mileage

This forum is for discussing anything related to electrolysis and electrolyzer designs.

Postby eco » Tue Aug 30, 2005 2:30 pm

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Postby dkmacmillan » Tue Aug 30, 2005 2:35 pm

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Postby Bob Boyce » Tue Aug 30, 2005 4:39 pm

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Postby arcainmachineist » Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:14 pm

i tried a similar idea i put 12 stainless plates in a stack with machiened step washers to center and space them with wires on 1/2 and 1/ neg/pos put them in a penut butter jar with 1/4 teaspoon of sodium carbonate and well water wow! makes about 2 liters of gas in 5 minuets but burned the ends of the wires off!! i dumped out the mix put straight water in hooked it back to the car battery gets 1.5 ltrs per 5 min the wires are hot but not melting any ideas?
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Postby BEMET » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:46 pm

With all of the plates you are using you need very very very little sodium carbinate or any other electrolyte to make the cell work. It is either lots of plates and little electrolyte or few plates and increase the concentration of the electrolyte to the max. Increasing the number of plates or concentration of electrolyte will increase the amp draw.

In my two plate cell in my truck in a quart Rubbermaid bottle I am using #8 wire and 5/16 ss bolts in the middle of my plates and drawing 12 amps cold. My plates are 2" x 7" and L shaped with the L's facing each other and the horizonal portions of the L's above each other with about 1/8" gap. The bolts come through the middle of the verticles and above the bolts is angled towards each other so that as the bubbles rise they clean off the plates.

I made two cells in 4" deep x 7" long Glad food storage containers and started with three 3 x 6 1/2" plates and diluted electrolyte from the truck cell. It drew 8 amps cold. I connected two cells and amps dropped to about 1. I added some KOH and brought the cells in series up to 8 amps. The voltage across each cell in series was about 5 volts. I was running this off of a 15 amp battery charger. I added a 4th plate to one cell and the amp draw went up to 11amp and I added a 4th plate to the second cell and the amp draw went off the meter and the charger kicked off on overload protector.

You may need to up the gage of the wire you are using or dilute the electrolyte or reduce the number of cells to keep the wires from burning off.
When the price of gasoline went over $2.00 per gallon I started looking at alternatives again.

Comprehend and copy nature, V. Schauberger
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Postby Scott » Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:46 pm

peanut butter jar? Yum... drool :P

Has anyone tried hooking their unit up to the ignition as a switch? I'm thinking of doing that. I don't really see any problem with it as long as I keep a fuseable link between the positive terminal and the ignition. Or, I could just hook it up to the ignition power on for the radio.

I was also thinking of finding an electric switch that could handle about 100 amps or so. I'm installing a 200 amp alternator in my Jeep and I'm thinking it couldn't hurt to use that to my advantage with my reactor(s).

I know I can find switches like that. They sell them for kick ass car sterio amplifiers. I'm thinking of wiring this up with an amplifier wiring kit.

I had a short dream last night. I was standing in front of my Jeep working on tuning the reactor I am making I imagine. I get out of the engine compartment and brush my hands together as if I was finished with what I was doing. All the sudden, my jeep lifts itself up off the ground in an explosion leaving me completely unscathed and lands on its roof in the same place it was and everything. Lots of smoke, Jeep was totaled of course and sooty and all that. At that point I just threw up my hands a little, shook my head and walked away. End of dream. I woke up and was shook my head in dissapointment of my subconsious for not beliving in me.
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Postby BEMET » Wed Aug 31, 2005 10:17 pm

Starter solenoid switch from pre mid 1985 GM product can be wired in to kick in by turning on your ignition. I bought one for $10 for an '85 S-10 and wired it into my 98 Ranger.
When the price of gasoline went over $2.00 per gallon I started looking at alternatives again.

Comprehend and copy nature, V. Schauberger
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Postby Scott » Wed Aug 31, 2005 10:34 pm

perfect
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Postby arcainmachineist » Fri Sep 02, 2005 7:20 pm

ok good point i cut it down to 8 plates and made 2 lts of gas in 1 min but the wire still smoked ill cut it down to 6
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Postby kevinsatterfield » Fri Sep 02, 2005 7:22 pm

7 cells is soppose to be the best for a 12 volt bat.you must have too much electrolyte and that 2lts a min probably has alot of water vapor in it giving you a false reading( yeah im still tired)-----gooofy---- :shock: :mrgreen:
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Postby pertyfly » Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:01 am

Yeah, that's true, but arcainmachineist is only running 1 large cell with multi plates. The only real way to limit the current in this setup would be to weaken the elctrolyte. I'm running 1 with over 2 litres of water in it, and I used an amazingly small amount of NaOh. I'm talking way less than 1/2 tsp even (and this pulled about 12-15 amps). So, this would depend on your needs, and wire ga. to determine how many amps you want running through. I would suggest starting with new water, and add a bit of lye mix it, and try it, and keep adding, etc.

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Postby arcainmachineist » Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:28 am

i ran it with no electrolyte and still melted the wires with 12 plates and no water vapor present the bottle tossed in a fire went of like a bomb!
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Postby pertyfly » Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:51 am

So, you were running tap water or something like that, hmmm??

Yeah, your whole problem is the tap water (or impure water of some sort). All of the minerals and everything in it conduct, and this is what's causing your excessivley high current. If you run only distilled water, nothing else, you will actually notice no current going through, or extremely low (I tested this myself). So, you must start with distilled, and add small amounts of lye, or whatever you're using

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Postby Bob Boyce » Sat Sep 03, 2005 12:10 pm

Not only the tap water problem, but he is also running non-sealed cells, so the efficiency is going to be horrible. The reason I can tell is that it's working at all with 12 plates and tap water. Even with electrolyte, you wouldn't be able to draw enough current through 11 cells to melt even a small 20 guage wire without heating the electrolyte if it were sealed cells.

Non-sealed there's no limit to the number of plates you can put in it, but those center plates just take up space without producing any gas. Only one or two plates towards the ends will have enough coupled voltage/current to actually produce anything at all, and only the very end plates will be doing almost all of the production.

Very low hydroxy gas production with lots of water vapor in it. It'll still work as a booster, though not very cost effective with all those dead weight plates. A bottle full of all water vapor will still "go off like a bomb" if thrown into a fire.

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Postby arcainmachineist » Tue Sep 06, 2005 6:32 am

ok cut it down to 6 plates with 1/4 teaspoon of lye sorry guys not useing tap water useing well water through a revers osmossis filter. ie same as distilled no melted wires still make 1 lts of gas per min. i have put the booster on the car and will run it all week to see if it helps the milage. what do u mean im useing a non sealed systm? the botttle is air tight sealed the wires and hose with silicon no air leaks i tested it in a tub of water.
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