the brute force solution!

[chemelec]

[resident_genius]

[resident_genius]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2I9zy4rxCFg

^^^latest HHO works video.

[resident_genius]

[topothemtn]

[resident_genius]

[resident_genius]

Before Booster

Fuel Tank: 16 gallons.

range, typical: 325 Miles per tank.

MPG: 20.96

After Booster:

Range, 425 miles

MPG: 27.4

booster ONLY installed. NOTHING else altered.

[AlaskaStar]

For your Highway tests, Might I suggest that you plan a route like I do for highway testing?

My route is simple, Double-checked highway only, with NO stopping for any reason in the middle, not even for piss breaks or gasoline.

I fill my tank at Pittman Road, which is the LAST stoplight heading north out of Wasilla. The next stop-light is in Fairbanks at the end of the Johanson Expressway. The trip is over 350 miles ONE WAY.

Do the trip without the mods, recording everything, NO STOPS.

Do the mods, top up the tank and blast down the road. 5 hours one way.

Refill, get receipt write the mileage on the receipt. Check the oil, water, tires, etc, and drive back.

Refill in Wasilla, get receipt and write the mileage on the receipt.

Do your math.

Then, for city driving, pick a stretch of road that is usually congested with idiots. For me, that would be the Palmer-Wasilla Highway. The posted speed is 55 mph. I can't do more than 12 mph stop/go from the number of idiots on that 2 lane road that runs between Palmer and Wasilla.

There's a consistent load of traffic and lots of idiots jamming it up, and this traffic pattern has not changed in 15 years, except to get worse.

Run 2 tanks through this with and without mods.

Compare results.

The $120 in gas might be worth some results. Get a good looking gal with good music/ conversation happening to go along for the ride. It helps.

AlaskaStar

[resident_genius]

chris! how you been? i looked up aurora tech and was going to give a call....but didnt know if one of the guys there would be like "uhh, talking to the boss might be difficult..." haha.

anywho, i do a regular run of 45 miles each way. about 8 miles are at about 45 mph of congestion, and the rest is a straight shot. i maintain 65 mph unless a collision is imminent (changing lanes etc to maintain my speed) and i dont tailgate anyone(drafting). while on base, the car's engine is allowed to cool down to ambient temperatures in NJ, while it sits during 8am-3pm. on my way home, same route and same technique is used.

now heres the ring-a-ding-dinger: i know that sometimes (prolly about 5-10% of the time) my driving varies. so i reset the tripometer every time i fill up. every time i fill up, i reset it, and make note of how many gallons i take on. every time, i fill it with 93 octane, 15.5 gallons. i fill up about twice a week. 325-340 miles per tank. dependent upon humidity/rain/ lead foot variables.

today i looked at my tripometer- its at 425 right now. and i've got maybe another 10-15 miles out of it before i'll get scared of running out of gas. my driving is consistent and i've found that the savings of driving at 65 mpg versus 80 mpg really isnt worth one ticket....(65 mph zones give double points and double $ fines) and all the savings in gas will be outweigh'd by one ticket. plus the air resistance @ 80 mph is so much greater than 65 mph.

anywho! this is only the first stage. i want to hook up my alcohol injection system again and have it run almost continuously while the engine is running. but instead, i'll fill it with just water. maybe i'll put a switch on it so that it doesnt activate while idling.

my goal is at least 40 mpg. i already have the spark plug non fouler drilled out and ready to go on, just gotta find the time to throw it in there. maybe i'll do it on base soon(we have an auto hobby shop).i'll tell my boss i need to do an oil change and throw that in there.

i am consistently gaining about 5-7mpg, so if i see further gains i'll know the sensor spacer works.


i feel you on taking ALL the variables out of the system, im a scientist myself.... i just dont have the money to take a destinationless drive. besides, my son wont stand for it, i'll go son of sam at a rest stop from him screaming. haha.

and secondly, daily driving is all about variables. unexpected traffic- stop and go, wide open throttle.... its not about a super consistent hwy drive then a fairly consistent city drive..... its about the chaos theory of daily driving. its consistently- inconsistent!

[resident_genius]

by the way chris its good to see you alive and kicking.....was starting to get worried. shoot me an email sometime. no homo here, but i miss my alaskan pen pal haha.

[AlaskaStar]

I have my voice back now so you can call me now. At the most now I can only speak 5 languages from it.

Sent from my Archos 5 Internet Tablet.

AlaskaStar

[resident_genius]

wow, im so glad to hear you can talk again. i'll give a call later on today.

i sure hope english is one of those five languages, because thats the only one i speak.

[AlaskaStar]

Yes I still speak English/ Bad Amerikan Dialect.

The later in the day that you call, the better. Closer to about 7 or 8 PM AK Standard time would be better.

AlaskaStar

[resident_genius]

well, the whole system is getting re-done.

i re-worked my master kill box and now each cell has its own 0-5DCV, 0-25 ampere capable driver. so yes, my system is going to use 50 amps.



up front, by me, is the lighted LED master kill switch, 0-25 amp ammeter (total input amps shown here), fuse holder with warning light, and two knobs- the top knob controls cell #1 and bottom controls cell #2. a second box showing the amperes at the cells is going to be mounted in front of my glove box, so i can tell exactly what is going on all within arms reach. ill be able to monitor input amperage, and individual cell amperage.


ordered two 0-30A ammeters and shunts today from all electronics. these are the two going in front of the glove box.

the inner workings of my cells also got re-done. i ordered fazzio steel to laser cut me ten 316 SS 18 ga 4" by 5" plates. $8 a plate. not bad. holes and all, laser cut. booyah. each cell gets five plates. some SS allthread coming in from fastenal.

this should lower my working voltage even further.... i was pushing one of my cells @ 25 amperes with only 2.54 volts, compared to the 3.3V for 40 amps, but both cells. each plate has 4.5 x 4 of active surface area. so with five plates it'll be well within boyce's reccommendations for amperage. even room for expansion with a higher ampere driver! haha.

in the back is where i've got a larger box with single fan cooling both of the cell driver units. again, they are remote controlled via my front control box with adjustment pots. i've been putting many many coats of liquid electrical tape on the unit so theres no accidental shorting.


as you can see i've built up the traces as heavily as possible given the small space to work with. i really should have separated them. ohwell its not too late, if i run into problems i'll just put them on their own board.


well, its all about numbers now innit?! well, lets see here. datasheet from manufacturer says....@ 2.5 DCV output and 25 amps, at a 10 volt input, i'd be using 6.9 amps. but im closer to 14 volt input. so doubling that, thats a <15A input for 50 amps[output] driving my cells. and keep in mind, having my new plates should decrease my cells resistance, lowering voltage further! im guessing its going to be in the 10-12 amp range. prolly more towards ten. we'll see.

[resident_genius]

my chip is currently 91% efficient @ 2.5 volt output, which is where my cell seems to like to run at. with that math and logic incorporated, at 13.8 volts, the cell will consume 5 amperes per chip, quantity of two chips, so a total of ten amperes. so lemme lay this out for ya'll....

13.8 [DCV] * 5[Amps per cell] * 2[Number of cells] = 138 watts total consumption. this is the wattage consumed from the vehicle's electrical system.

my cells themselves are going to be seeing [approx] 2.5 DCV @ 25 amps.
2.5[DCV] * 25[Amps per cell] * 2 [Number of cells] = 125 watts used to make hydrogen.

heres what i have been tryin to beat into everyones head....

your car's radio has a ten amp fuse. your blower motor for the climate control has a 15 or 20 amp fuse. your radiator fan motor (if electric) 20, 25, or even 30 amps.

my system is a 50 ampere, 2.5 DCV apparatus that only draws ten amps. no wasted electricity....