Thrival -Vapor Carb

[arcainmachineist]

[thrival]

[arcainmachineist]

[BEMET]

[thrival]

[arcainmachineist]

thrival i made one but not much of a spark...but i think i need to find a non resistor plug..as it is it was makeing 4 or 5 sparks at onece seemed more than a normal plug so i seems to be the right direction.

[pertyfly]

I don't think you'll get any better than about 4-5 sparks at once. I am almost surprised at that actually. If the plate is not absolutely perfectly square, you will limit the sparks jumping. For instance, they will only jump at the closest point, etc

So, 4-5 compared to normally just 1 sounds good to me. I really don't think you'll find a whole skirt of sparks around a plug like that

I would love to be shown differently though!! Definitely try it, I would love to hear the results

Chris

[thrival]

arcainmachineist:

I did some research on plugs and a chinese website said they're
made of copper-nickel, which led me to designating same (monel)
metal for the washer. Further study informs me that monel isn't very
good conductor (close to lead, which is still used for battery terminals);
in fact steel is better (but oxidizes more.) And yet some racing wire
manufacturers brag "Monel Conductor for maximum conductivity." See:

www.jacksonracing.com/Shop/ViewProducts ... exID=38808

Pure copper would be best but for its low melting point. Also gap will be a
factor.

[arcainmachineist]

i made the washer out of high nickle steel with a lathe i did the project in the machine shop and tiged the disk on and checked the gap with feeler gauges to get it squrare. i dont do 1/2 assed machine work lol

[thrival]

Copper wires maybe? a hotter coil?, a capacitor shunt?

[arcainmachineist]

how do i make a shunt? im a machineist and a mechanic not much at electrical stuff.

[thrival]

A shunt is a short circuit across a component. Every electrical
circuit and component needs two wires, a hot and a ground.
A shunt is wiring something in parallel with another component,
in this case a capacitor in parallel with the primary side of
the coil.

You want it to be a bi-polar type capacitor so it doesn't blow up
if you do it wrong. The primary side of an auto ignition coil is
only 12V but lots of amps. Don't ask me what sized cap because
I really don't know. 1 - 2uF (microFarads) is a safe place to start,
typical in microwave ovens are less than 1, like .80, .85, etc. For
all I know it could take 5 or 10uF. I will be doing this myself soon
enough. Anyway as you know the distributor isn't always firing,
there are time gaps, albeit very short, before the next plug fires.
The capacitor charges up from the battery but can't release back
into the battery because of back-pressure. It can only release
through the coil when it has a free path, i.e. when the distributor
fires. It's stored current, with the battery current, will be additive.
Also it should tend to sustain the spark strength longer. The time
between firings is when the capacitor recharges.

[thrival]

I forgot to mention, it can knock you on your can. It's
not HV like your ignition wires, but way more current.
Never touch the capacitor after you hook it up,
without disconnecting it from the battery and shorting
the capacitor terminals together with an insulated
screw-driver. Capacitors once charged, have a memory.
You can take them out of a circuit, discharge them, and
a few days or weeks later they will have charged them-
selves! If that ain't free energy, i don't know what is.

[arcainmachineist]

lol u lost me right after "you want" think ill just look for a non resistor plug

[thrival]

I could probably show you but I've tried ascii
drawings on blogs like this and they never look
like their supposed to.