The ignition voltage should be high enough to jump that gap. affix the clip to a good ground, and attach plug wire, or coil wire. if no spark at plug wire, go to the coil, if good a coil, and not at plug, then replace cap and rotor.
the color of the spark also denotes importance. if the color is RED, ORANGE or YELLOW, replace the coil. if it is WHITE, PURPLE, or BLUE, the coil is good, and move on to other things, also make sure plugs are dry and clean.
Simple, Simple, Simple. this is what you need to think. Air? Fuel? Spark? Compression? Timing?
As for the timing, remove distributor cap, grab rotor and try to rotate it by hand. if you can rotate the rotor (with slight dragging) into a complete circle, the problem is that the roll pin in the base of the distributor that holds the gear to the distributor shaft is sheared. replace with new pin and gear, and check shaft for bending, excess shaft play, or other signs of wear.
Does the rotor even rotate when cranking? if the rotor does NOT turn by hand, and the rotor does NOT turn while cranking, check for broken TIMING CHAINS, or BROKEN TIMING GEARS. All 3 of the "big boys" have started using (against everyone's better judgement) PLASTIC TIMING GEARS, like on the camshaft....even the GM products have had these, as the timing sprocket on the camshaft will have all the teeth fall off, and upon removal, you think to yourself, why in the F*** WOULD THEY DO THIS????? Ford did this all the way back in 1987 on the 300 cube inline 6. the gear looked like metal, but was actually FIBERGLASS. That one "oops'd" at highway speeds in the middle of nowhere in the middle of winter in the middle of the night on my neighbor in his Bronco, 4 weeks after we rebuilt the engine together. He "Upgraded" to a STEEL (made certain with a MAGNET!) CAM GEAR. truck still runs, and it's been at least 3 years.
When in doubt, ask questions, or get a visual. remove the valve cover, and validate that the rocker arms and valves/pushrods are actuating while the engine is cranking.
Check for fuel pressure. Do you have any? on the fuel rail that connects to all the injectors, there should be a small plastic cap, similar to that of a bicycle tire cap. remove it. you will see a valve that looks like a tire valve. push this in with a pencil. Gasoline should spray like a fountain out of this. if it doesn't check fuses and relays, or possibly the pump itself.
Validate fuel pump is working. TURN KEY OFF. TURN RADIO OFF. TURN HEATER/AC BLOWER OFF. TURN CELL PHONE OFF. REMOVE ALL EXTRA NOISE FROM VICINITY. REMOVE JABBERING NEIGHBOR. TURN KEY TO "ON" POSITION-***IMPORTANT***-DO NOT CRANK ENGINE!!!***LISTEN WHEN KEY IS IN "ON" POSITION, IF DOOR OR "ANNOYANCE BUZZER/DINGING" NOISE IS TOO LOUD, FIND IT, AND REMOVE IT.
NOW LISTEN FOR SOUND OF PUMP FOR 2 SECONDS AFTER TURNING KEY TO "ON" POSITION.
If no noise, proceed to find friend with long broom handle, or rubber mallet. have friend under vehicle, gently "Thumping" on the bottom of fuel tank directly under the position of fuel pump. *NOTE: hit hard, but do not dent tank, and keep thumping repeatedly. turn key to "on" position, and listen for fuel pump noise, if now heard, have friend keep thumping, and start engine. engine should stay running. purchase new fuel pump and install as per manufacturer specification.
Hope this helps some more.
AlaskaStarStatistics: Posted by AlaskaStar — Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:39 am
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