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OUPower.com Discussion Board for Over Unity Power Research 2014-09-22T17:22:02-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/feed.php?f=9 2014-09-22T17:22:02-04:00 2014-09-22T17:22:02-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1879&p=30746#p30746 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Tuning for Mileage]]>
While I did hear about LPG fumigation many yrs ago, it is only in the past yr that I have installed it. Basic install, 9kg lpg cylinder in the boot, gas is solenoid controlled via a micro switch on the throttle linkage ie I can adjust when it becomes operational, and then there is an over-ride switch which can turn it all off.
It is wired up from the oil pressure switch so that if the motor is not running the gas cannot flow. Currently it is set up to come on at about 60kph. gas pressure is regulated via barbecue lpg pressure regulator (.3 lbs sq in?) and fed directly into the inlet manifold. Memory serving me right the largest jet I have is 1mm in dia which gives an enrichment supposedly of 10% tho I think it may in fact be higher.
Lpg tank , using largest jet, is good for about 3000 km.
Incidentally not only better economy, but also power increase, quite noticeable traversing hilly terrain.

Another option to add would be a fuel heater, my guess being, based on earlier experiments, to be good for perhaps 7-10%. Cold air intake may also add another few percent.

Statistics: Posted by van — Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:22 pm


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2014-09-22T09:36:50-04:00 2014-09-22T09:36:50-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1879&p=30743#p30743 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Tuning for Mileage]]> Statistics: Posted by Chris — Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:36 am


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2014-09-13T23:50:41-04:00 2014-09-13T23:50:41-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1879&p=30698#p30698 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Tuning for Mileage]]>
Doesn't time fly when you are having fun?? Hard to credit that 5yrs have flown by.Well the old van is history, I parked it up about 2yrs ago and it has been sitting there deteriorating in the weather in the interim. It was replaced by an '86 Holden Commodore VK Berlina, retro-fitted with an LD 28 Nissan diesel an engine I am rather fond of. Initially little was done to it, tho recently I added an LPG fumigation array to it which saw the lpk rise from 12-15ks per l to over 20ks per litre close to around 60mpg. Much more can be done I am sure, but lacking access to a workshop and frustrated trying to source certain goodies, will probably mean it won't get much further than that.

Bill

Statistics: Posted by van — Sat Sep 13, 2014 11:50 pm


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2012-12-26T23:20:54-04:00 2012-12-26T23:20:54-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4984&p=30623#p30623 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Any diesel wrenchheads?]]> there is a will there is a way.

Diesels are fascinating. I had a VW Rabbit diesel several
years ago. It was given to me by a friend and had some
problems. I worked on it a bit and got it going and let
my son use it for school. That was rather a mistake.

The VW engines just weren't built sturdily enough.

Is your Yanmar still going?

Statistics: Posted by SeaMonkey — Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:20 pm


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2012-03-27T05:45:21-04:00 2012-03-27T05:45:21-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4984&p=28562#p28562 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Any diesel wrenchheads?]]>
Then I checked it was pumping by cranking it. Then I bled the system on the pump output and again at the injector.

Then finally I set it so the needle valve was tight when the centrifugal rod was fully extended, cranked it a few times and it went.

I held onto the valve-lifter until I was sure it wasn't going to run away. I was absolutely amazed that the throttle control was perfectly adjusted.

It idles even at a couple of hundred rpm - if I let the speed control cable slacken enough. I don't know what top end rpm is, but it sounds about right. Maybe 3,000rpm at the moment.



The first time I cranked it with the intention of starting it it didn't even have any oil in it, and the engine cover was tacked on by three bolts instead of the twelve it needs. Well as it started, I soon stopped it using the valve lifter, put the oil in it, tightened up a few connections and put the rest of the bolts in and then cranked it and listened to the music.



It needs a few things done to it because it hasn't been used for a decade or more. It's pretty rusty and the cables are grunged-up and unwilling to move. A couple of bolts got turned and had the heads snapped off, but I'll work on that and thse problems seem minor.



I haven't put it in any of the six gears yet, and I haven't fiddled with anything else whilst it was running for fear it'll take off and smash into my car which is a few metres in front of it ... I haven't ever used one of these Yanmar (350kg) rototillers before and I'm a bit apprehensive at the moment.

Well it looks like I've figured it out, so this thread should die.

I hope I might have encouraged others to have a go with their injection pumps on a diesel.

Well - That's it I suppose.

:)

Statistics: Posted by mael — Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:45 am


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2012-03-26T06:45:31-04:00 2012-03-26T06:45:31-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4984&p=28559#p28559 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Any diesel wrenchheads?]]>
There are no parts missing now. Now all I need to do is get it all cleaned and make sure it works. Then there's that "little" matter of adjusting it correctly.

Trouble is I don't like giving up, so I'll be trying to fix it until I am either successful or until I break some vital part I can't replace.

Maybe I'll have some good weather tomorrow so I can spend some time getting things in order.

And I'm very much in need of hints and advice for adjusting the injection pump. If I understand how it is supposed to work, and also understand the reasons behind why it works as it does, then I think I stand a good chance of getting it close enough in order to start it, and then if it starts I should be able to figure out which direction I need to turn screws.

(Crazy huh)!

Statistics: Posted by mael — Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:45 am


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2012-03-25T19:33:29-04:00 2012-03-25T19:33:29-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4984&p=28558#p28558 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Any diesel wrenchheads?]]>
Sorry to sully the board with this, but I need some help and I am frustrated for answers by asking in the places I have asked so far.

The problem is a small diesel engine I'm trying to get running. It's a Yanmar, it's about 400cc, single cylinder, and there's a problem with the injector pump.

I've not worked on diesels before and I made the mistake of removing the injector pump when I decided to try to clean it.

The pump wasn't working when I cranked it. Fuel was getting in, but it wasn't pumping out. Eventually I decided to remove the unit. But it won't slide out as it's connected to a governer by an arm, which must be removed in order to slide the pump unit out. I hadn't realized at that time how critical the setting on the governer was, and now I discover apart from a general lack of info about diy fixes of injector pumps, the setting of the pump is something normally left to trained professionals with special equipment (that I haven't got).

I took an engine cover off to get at the arm-linkage, and had that side of the engine stripped-down on a nice sunny day. Then in the afternoon the weather turned and I ended up scurrying about trying to cover everything and get the tools inside. Then it rained and we had high winds for two days and then I noticed the governer slide had fallen out of the plastic bag I had put all the parts in to stop them from getting waterlogged. Inside the governer slide there is a small spring attached to a valve like a needle valve. (Of all the pieces to fall out, this was the most difficult to replace). Well I found the slide, but the spring and needle valve is still missing, and the chances of finding that piece seem very slim.

Commonsense tells me I've got a useless diesel engine which would be best to scrap asap. But the wild side of me says I should try to fix it.

I had the engine splutter a few times with carb cleaner down the air manifold, so basically it's a goer apart from the injection side of things.

So I would appreciate some advice from people who understand diesel engines.

I know the injector pump delivers a precisely timed amount of fuel to the injector, and that the governer serves to adjust the dose of fuel. However I don't know much more than that at the moment.

Theoretically I can fix it by manually adjusting the linkage on the governer, but it could take one go or it might take a hundred tries. As it is necessary to drain the oil and remove the engine cover each time an adjustment is made, it seems somewhat awkward to attempt to get the position right using this method... especially with my limited knowledge of diesels, which means my guesses might not be very close. ... and this is assuming I can either make the governer valve work, or make it so the governer valve is bypassed.

I am aware I might make something like a semi-diesel by jury-rigging a heater to mix something containing diesel. How about a small carb running a mix of diesel and gasoline fixed to the inlet manifold?

Well, I don't see much need for me to demonstrate my ignorance much more in this post, so can I throw this problem out to the members here and ask you to point me in the right direction?

Statistics: Posted by mael — Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:33 pm


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2012-01-17T00:14:49-04:00 2012-01-17T00:14:49-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2270&p=25997#p25997 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Carbon Dioxide, Friend or Foe?]]>
Hope this helps

Statistics: Posted by Jehu — Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:14 am


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2012-01-09T00:24:53-04:00 2012-01-09T00:24:53-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2270&p=25971#p25971 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Carbon Dioxide, Friend or Foe?]]>

Carbon Dioxide: Friend or Foe?
A Web Quest for AP Environmental Science


Introduction
It is the year 2030 in the town of Cabrillo-Carbonville. Widespread droughts have plagued the farmers this year with the majority of their crops dying off. Also the town has had to insist on mandatory water conservation methods in order to save their slowly diminishing water supply. To compound to the problem, it has been discovered that local dry cleaners and production plants have been discharging their solvents into the nearby creeks. Scientists have attributed the drought and severe weather conditions to global climate change due to excessive carbon dioxide levels. The town leaders have decided that they need to hire a consulting firm to address their problem of too much carbon dioxide and too little water. Otherwise they are going to have to import a lot of food and water in order to support their town's needs. Several firms are vying for this billion dollar contract and a decision will be made at next week's town council meeting.

The Task
Your firm wants to come up with the best idea for the town. This idea should help the environment, lower carbon dioxide levels, promote growth of crops, and increase water supply. As impossible as the task sounds, your employer wants your group to include as many ideas as possible. Therefore split up different areas of research and then meet to brainstorm what your group wishes to propose.

•Your documents are due on or before August 25, 2009 at midnight.
•You will present your findings at the next town council meeting (First week of school). You may use power point, posters, brochures, etc. Whatever you think you need to sell your idea.

The Process
Brainstorm and research the various components of the project.
Pick what aspects of the project you will include in your final presentation.
Prepare your brochures, posters, or Power Points.

Statistics: Posted by Maddix15 — Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:24 am


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2011-12-13T04:16:56-04:00 2011-12-13T04:16:56-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2437&p=25945#p25945 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Algae Fuel]]> Statistics: Posted by Oliveber — Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:16 am


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2011-10-21T01:56:49-04:00 2011-10-21T01:56:49-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2504&p=25887#p25887 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • Re: Time for a fresh fred on batteries.]]> the ears!

The situations where you've encountered cells with
weak electrolyte (lower than normal specific gravity)
following desulfation and rejuvenation are quite common
in my own experiences.

With continued pulsing the sulfation in those "weak"
cells will usually be converted and the electrolyte will
come back to full strength. It's as if those cells are of
a little less capacity than the others and as a consequence
the sulfation is more severe. Extended and continued
pulsing will in time equalize them unless they're suffering
from some sort of internal defect such as a broken plate
or two.

You ask really good questions about the Epsom Salt
(Magnesium Sulfate) treatment. When it is added to
the weak electrolyte of a heavily sulfated dead battery
it will serve to make the electrolyte (which is nearly
pure water in that condition) electrically conductive.
This will facilitate the beginning of the desulfation at a
somewhat lower voltage than would otherwise be required
to get the process going.

The presence of the additional sulfate ions in the electrolyte
from the Magnesium Sulfate will also lessen the likelihood of
lead sulfate going into solution when the electrolyte is very
weak due to deep discharge. The less lead sulfate which
goes into solution the better as it won't "Plate Out" onto the
negative plates during charging. This will minimize the
formation of dendrites which may in time produce shorts
between the plates;
and it will also minimize the gradual transfer of lead from the
positive plates to the negative plates by this solubility.

The added Magnesium Sulfate by itself will not result in
any great amount of desulfation - the pulsing will still be
needed to accomplish that. But, the addition will be
otherwise beneficial to both desulfation and normal
charging. With periodic desulfation those batteries with
the added Magnesium Sulfate should enjoy longer lives
than would be possible without it.

I prefer to add the Magnesium Sulfate dissolved in
distilled water to top off the cells when the electrolyte
level is low. Or, electrolyte may be withdrawn from the
cells, Magnesium Sulfate added with warming, and the
solution put back into the cells. About two heaping
tablespoons per cell should be sufficient.

Have you tried this yet Mael? If so, what have you seen
in the way of results?

Statistics: Posted by SeaMonkey — Fri Oct 21, 2011 1:56 am


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2011-05-26T16:25:09-04:00 2011-05-26T16:25:09-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2419&p=25814#p25814 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • ]]> Statistics: Posted by Amr — Thu May 26, 2011 4:25 pm


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2011-05-22T08:03:59-04:00 2011-05-22T08:03:59-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2419&p=25812#p25812 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • ]]> Statistics: Posted by mael — Sun May 22, 2011 8:03 am


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2011-05-21T16:41:31-04:00 2011-05-21T16:41:31-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2419&p=25811#p25811 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • ]]> Statistics: Posted by Amr — Sat May 21, 2011 4:41 pm


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2011-03-23T15:24:49-04:00 2011-03-23T15:24:49-04:00 https://www.oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2419&p=25788#p25788 <![CDATA[General Conventional Project Discussions • ]]> Statistics: Posted by Amr — Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:24 pm


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