Magnetic Hydrogen Electrolyzer

[AlaskaStar]

[FarrahDay]

[Jehu]

It's way more than 1 layer. I really don't know how many layers there are. I just tried to wind the wire evenly over the length of the pipe. It's not neat but it's reasonably even. Once I get a decent reel of wire I'll do a good job for Rev. 3.

I'll post a link to my project page for you right . Pics are in there.

The resistance of the coil is 165.4 ohms.



In regards to the figures AS has given us, people have often though that he claimed to produce the 17.1 MHz with the 555 timer. Let me say this once for everyone.

The 17.1 MHz was produced from a circuit using a crystal, not the 555 timer. The 555 timer was the second circuit and AlaskaStar never gave us the frequency he generated with the 555 timer.

Alot of people got stuck on this one and caused some big mud slinging matches and flame wars. They just never read what he said properly.

[FarrahDay]

Hi Jehu

Yes, I guessed the 17MHz to be the cause of the mudslinging, and it might be because we are given references to more than one set up that is causing confusion and complicating things. Even so something with the figures does not feel right.

I wish Alaska would repeat the 555 timer set-up and come back to us with figures from that alone.

Your coil

165 ohms seems very high, I was expecting you to say around 5 ohms!

Are you using very thin wire? How does your 25/30BS relate to SWG:

SWG link: http://www.8886.co.uk/ref/standard_wire_gauge.htm

[Jehu]

Well, according to the chart in that link it should be about 33 S.W.G. as it is 0.25mm wire and probably 28 s.w.g. for the second type of wire.

The resistance could be due to a few factors. As I said, I had to use multiple smaller reels of wire. These were about 58 meters long for the 0.25mm and about 30 meters for the 0.37mm wire. There is about 8 of these reels put together. I think 4 of the 0.25mm and 4 of th 0.37mm so that would make a total length of about 345 meters of wire.

Also my soldering skills are not the best so that might have been a problem. I'm also not sure of the best way to remove the enamel coating so I've been taking a lighter to the ends to burn it off and then scraping the rest of the stuff off then soldering it together.

Also it took ages to get a stable reading on my meter. Dunno why. But after a while and as long as the wires/cables/probes wern't moving I finally got a decent reading.

[FarrahDay]

Jehu

I know you've already done it, but for future reference it is best to completely scrape the enamel off with a sharpe blade and then tin the bear ends in a light coating of solder. Then to join them, lay the tinned ends side by side, apply the tip of the soldering iron to both ends simultaneously before then applying a small amount of solder directly to the tinned ends to form a neat join.

Your resistance does seem extraordinarily high to me and I'm just wondering if you may indeed have a bad (high resistance join) somewhere. The fact that your multimeter was giving erratic readings when the coil was moving certainly suggests that this may be the case.

According to specs, 1000ft (approx. 330m) of SWG 30 should be around 103 ohms!

I suggest you investigate any possible bad join. If you don't it will quickly find you out when you try to use the coil.

Incidentally, I've now been coil winding for nearly 5 hours and Im only a quarter way through. Very mentally tiring and hard on your eyes if - as I'm doing - you want all the coils set parallel, neatly side by side.

I apply a little fast drying superglue every 10 or so turns, to keep everything from uncoiling on me. I also want the coils to be tight and firm as an ac signal might otherwise cause the coils to vibrate which inturn might cause chaffing of the enamel and ultimately shorting of the coil.

[kevinsatterfield]

Faraday, the project pages can reached by clik'n the OUPower.com header at the top of this page.Good luk in your search for wat ever it isthis thread is seeking and remember it was Eienstein that said E=MC2

[mrgalleria]

Aloha,
I had been experimenting for some time with an air coil similar to Alaska's. It uses the 1 1/4" pvc (160 psi), 10" long. I only had enameled wire from some old square transformers which was unrolled and re-rolled on the tube, 4 1/5 to 5 layers deep, in three sets wired in series, instead of one long coil like Alaska's. The wire is probably 14 awg. Coil resistance is 1 ohm.

In spite of using bigger wire, the magnetic field produced in the PVC seems strong. I suspended a steel washer from a thin copper wire to insert in the PVC to test for magnetism. The advantage to using the copper wire was that there is good feedback of the generated field on the wire which can be felt. I tried the liquid solution recommended by Alaska, using several methods to pulse current through the coil. I ran the coil in series with ac and dc motors, and dc lamps. I tried a couple homemade frequency generators, but I believe now that they were not functioning. I am now trying a strong solution of colloidal silver rather than lye. Chemlec didn't consider lye a ferrite material (magnetic), though it worked for Alaska. I also will make some colloidal copper to try.
To now, I have seen no disassociation of the water solution. I am not ready to give up though.
Bill

[FarrahDay]

Hi MrG

How exactly are you powering your coil?

What voltage, signal, frequency?

When you talk about 'ferrite', I assume you mean 'ferrous', which simply indicates the presence of the element iron. So not sure how or why you are relating this to our electrolyte, none of which contain any iron.

All good electrolytes dissociate well in water to become +ve and -ve ions (nothing to do with iron - Fe), and it is this that makes them good electrolytes. Electrolyte effectiveness has nothing to do with magnetism.

Not sure why you would want to try colloidal silver or copper unless you intend to do some electroplating.

Sounds like you should really be getting your signal source sorted. Stick with sodium hydroxide or pottassium hydroxide and forget the silver and copper stuff.

1 ohm is a very low resistance. And with 14 SWG wire you will not have any great inductance and likewise a very low XL, which would mean that a lot of current would be drawn unless you used a very high frequency. You would have to make sure you had in-line resistance and that your signal frequency is not too low otherwise your coil will draw too much current and burn out your cct. You might actually have destroyed your homemade frequency generator because this has occurred.

Do you not use any test equipment, scopes, meters, etc to see and/or check the ouput from your sig. gens?

[Jehu]

Thanks for the tip Farrah. I also did some more research last night and found that there is a few diferent ways to strip the ends. I might use the sandpaper trick too. Also just thinking about itthe extra resistance could be due to the fly leads I attached to the ends of the coil. They are a bit tarnished onthe ends soI might have to strip thm back abit.

Thanks again.

[FarrahDay]

Jehu

some enamelled wire is solderable (that is the enamel melts and allows you to effectively solder through it), but most standard enamelled wire requires a good scrape. Sand paper will do fine.

You will know if the enamels all off as it won't tin up with solder if it's still there, as the solder will only stick to the clean, shiny copper wire.

Finished winding my first multi-coil last night - took a full 12 hours.

Here are the specs:

I have two coils wound on my 40mm pvc former, they are connected in series and spaced 45mm apart. So it resembles a dumbell shape.

I used 21 SWG enamelled wire.

Each coil in 34mm in length, with a depth of 15mm (from 41mm dia first layer of turns to 70mm diameter last layer of turns).

I estimate that each coil has approx. 840 turns.

I calculated the inductance to be between 200 - 500 mHenry's.

On measuring the inductance on my Marconi Universal LCR Bridge, I found the actual inductance to be 375mH.

My coil has a dc resistance of 10.3 ohms.

Look forward now to doing a few experiments.

[Jehu]

Well, I just did some quick sums and it looks like my coil will only draw 1.5 watts with a straight DC current. So I'm not expecting much out of this thing. I will be buying some more magnet wire to make a better coil. Might use slightly larger wire too.

Also I was thinking of using the DC pulse from my signal generator to switch a 2N3055 transistor that is hooked up to a 12V DC source and the coil so I can push a higher voltage and more current through the coil. Do you think this will work?

Farrah, how is you setup comming along?

[FarrahDay]

Jehu

I'm just deciding on how to go about the build of the pulse cct. I think I'm going to start with building a simple ignition coil driver cct.

This is where Alaska could really help, as the logical thing to do would be to simply repeat his experiment exactly and go from there. But unless he actually provides us with his exact 555 timer cct, then we might as well be starting from scratch - which seems a bit ridiculous given that Alaska claims to have already done what we are trying to replicate.

Looking further at the 555 timer, specs, even my suspected 2.5MHz max was optimistic. The timer actually maxs out at 1MHz, but in practice is usually only reliable up to 500KHz - and of course this depends on the components used with it. So this issue really needs to be addressed. One thing for sure is that the 17MHz is miles out. How did he ever come to this 17MHz figure? Has he equipment to measure this?

I've looked over and over at the info, the figures make no real sense and there are not enough details to work with. If Alaska would detail his circuit in full for us to replicate, then we could start from there and I would be able to determine the true parameters.

It is clear that there is a great lacking in electronics knowledge here, which is quite a stumbling block given that we are relying on the electronics to feed our coils.

[Jehu]

Well all we really have is what he has posted in his project folder

The 17MHz figure came from the ocillating crystal that he used in his first circuit. The crystal was rated at 17MHz.

But.....

The 555timer circuit runs at a much lower frequency than the original crystal circuit and gives a higher output to boot!


I really do wish that I was still doing electricle engineering at tafe. It would have come in really handy for what we are doing today. The reason I didn't complete it was that there was not enough students and the course got canned. Crying shame.

[sparkgap]

Here is some more dialogue regarding AS's cct from another thread:

Chemloc wrote:

If Flux Density is Important as you say, than so is the Drive to the Mosfet.

I Suggest you remove that 5 Volt regulator as most mosfets require a 10 Volt Gate Signal. Simply drive it with 12 volts,

Possibly a Fusing resistor and either a Zener or Movistor for added protection.
-----------------------------------------
AlaskaStar wrote:

Look up the Spec sheet for the IRF540N by International Rectifier.

5 volts is full turn on.

10 volts is over-driving.
-----------------------------------------
Chemloc wrote:

According to my databook:

Typical Threshold at 2 volts
Maximum Threshold at 4 volts

Maximum Gate voltage is 20 Volts.

Either way, If 5 volts is, as you claim, you have a 0.6volt loss out of the 555.

-----------------------------------------
AlaskaStar:

And splitting hairs long-way with a chainsaw is just as effective.

0.6 volts is nothing in comparison.

If you can do it better, I strongly encourage you to do so. I have seen your site, and you have an extensive knowledge of electrical...

I know you can do it more efficiently than I could, but in the same, I encourage you to do it better. Besides you have a web site and the online selling capacity.