Water/electrolyte level gauge

[gas-mechanic]

I figure a new 'Subject' would get more folks to view this thread and maybe come up with some good answers.

To reiterate what was said in my other thread ():
- Chris offered sage advice about sparks within the gas chamber and a device with a tube with a float and a magnet.
- Bob Boyce offered a different design with lots of reference to electronic stuff like resistors and transistors, etc.
- coffeyw posted a link to a great-looking device used to auto-fill batteries.
- emmett offered a suggestion using ss wire.
- thrival suggested a common toilet float-type device.
...all great possibilities!

Now, this suggests to me that nobody actually DOES utilize a 'liquid' level indicator, probably because you have advanced to the clear plexiglas boxes with flat plate arrays. I put 'liquid' in quotes because apparently most folks are using electrolyte. We are using distilled water at this point, and hope to avoid the caustic properties of any additives.

I have read here how the additives will add to the production capabilities of this multi-tube single cell system, but certainly at this stage of our progress, we aren't ready to experiment with the acid. I used to have drawers full of tee-shirts and jeans with acid holes in them from working on batteries in cars, etc. LOL ...and they cost a LOT less back then!

I have been thinking way back to my childhood, when it was my job to keep track of the water level in the two oil-fired steam boilers in our basement (coated in a thick layer of asbestos, of course!), which supplied steam to heat cast-iron radiators in each room of the house.

There was a glass tube on the side of the boiler, and it mirrored the water level inside the double-walled jacket of the firebox. When it got down to a lower line painted on the glass, I added water until it reached the upper line. ...no auto-fill device back then but I'm sure there is something now, though.

This is just a basic early-on thought of mine. Haven't figured out how to keep the cell filled to proper level yet. Maybe just a free-flow gravity-fed reservoir?? Will think this through much more and make some sketches.

Anyhoo, that's where I am with THIS part of the project. Until I get this aspect figured out some more, we'll just have to keep opening the top of the cell to see the water level.

Remember, we're at the very earliest stages of our project!

So much to do! So much time!! LOL

[gas-mechanic]

I just got the '2006 Fall/Winter' catalog from Northern Tool + Equipment!

Here's what they have to offer:

They also have this one:

Each is $13.00 +s/h

Interesting... I just searched for a 'fluid level gauge' on eBay, and the 2nd version above came up, priced a $19.99 + $8.50 s/h!!
*caveat emptor!*

HOWEVER, I found a different FLG that led me to . It's a pdf file, so it may take a while to load, depending on your system.
Then look at the "Sight Levels". (no direct link)
They have a LOT of neat-looking stuff! ...no prices, tho.

Any thoughts on these gizmo's?

[thrival]

gas-mechanic:

In my project folder 1nch bubbler I believe I show a simple
float valve you can make using a bit of lamp rod, threaded
orifice, piece of coat hanger, and soft flotation foam. The
foam float also serves as the seal against the orifice. In
gasoline this float has problems due to swelling but in
distilled water you should have no problem. The float can
be narrow, cylindrical, to fit inside the central area of
your tubes, since you don't have lots of spare room in
your PVC pipe.

[gas-mechanic]

Thanks thrival!

I actually viewed ALL the project folders recently, and did take note of your bubbler.

Is that 'gravity check valve' a flapper-type valve such is used on a sump pump to keep the water in the outlet hose from draining back into the sump hole?

Also, is the hose size critical to the function of gas production and bubbler function?

We plan on using 3/16" id. plastic hose that comes with a faucet installation kit.

[thrival]

gas-mechanic:

The float valve is home-made. The wire shank is stuck
into the foam float on one end and inside the brass orifice
on the other. There's a degree of slop between the wire
and the orifice that lets water pass through. When the
foam float rises high enough, it closes the orifice directly.
There are no other mechanical parts, flappers, hinges et al.
like sump pumps use, only the vertical motion is similar.

Assume this is just for filling with water. I don't know what
your water reservoir pressures will be and should have no
bearing upon your gas production. My intention is always
to undermine complexity with simplicity.

[olympios]

[thrival]

[eco]

I think is the best use optical switch.this stuff take small place,working very well and precis without any fault.
leightonstone.com/dwyer/level/98-20l.html
I hade one