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1/2 cup of alum, 1/2 cup 20 mule team borax, 1/2 cup of no salt salt, 1/2 cup of epson salts.
Crush all until you have a fine powder and mix the 4 chemicals completely.
Buy a 2 inch wide 3 inch tall copper pipe fitting from Lowes.
Buy a 4 inch tall magnesium rod off Ebay.
Center the rod in the pipe and water the chemicals down till you have a thick pourable batter. Pour that into the copper tube and LET IT HARDEN UP.
Presto- instant self charging crystal battery. Anode is the magnesium rod. Cathode is the copper pipe fitting.
Might last you a lifetime.
Statistics: Posted by magnetman12003 — Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:52 pm
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I hope a lot of folks look into making the crystal cell popular.
The biggest cost is the magnesium rod.
The total cost is not that expensive and construction is very easy.
When finished the crystal is solid . No water is used unless you decide to mix the chemicals with water and pour the thick batter into the tube. Let it dry out into a solid form like plaster of Paris does.
Tom
Statistics: Posted by magnetman12003 — Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:02 pm
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Anyway you're posting this message in the perfect place. If the Crystal Cells get enough attention we can certainly make a dedicated forum for the topic! I have not played with them myself but they sound quite interesting and are certainly worthy of further investigation from members here.
Statistics: Posted by Chris — Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:06 am
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No environment damaging chemicals. Presently these cells can put out about 1.37 to 1.5 volts.
The beauty of these cells is that they RECHARGE themselves after use.
No one has yet established the life span of these cells but they may last a very long time.
Why has these cells not put in production is very simple.
You can't make money when the cell lasts almost forever.
Need a lot of folks to look into this.
Statistics: Posted by magnetman12003 — Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:36 am
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A petition has been started on Change.org for the US Government to release electrogravitics to the public.
http://www.change.org/petitions/us-mili ... ogravitics
Why This Is Important
My early childhood was defined by My father's excitement for His work in electrogravitics, then (1950's) being worked on openly by all major aerospace companies. My father, a CalTech graduate and one of the top electrical engineers at one of these companies, would tell Me about the successes of His experiements (gravity control and overunity (free energy)), and tell Me what the world I would grow up in would look like.
Cars would fly, cities would float, and We would have all the energy We could use.
Then, one night He came home from work late and woke Me up to tell Me We couldn't talk about the flying cars, the floating cities, the free energy anymore. "They want it secret for now."
Since My childhood, I have studied economics, coming to the conclusion (later confirmed by Jeremy Rifkin in His book, Entropy) that all money represented was meaningful energy expended. One can grasp this most easily by considering the first hunter, fisherperson, gatherer, farmer, miner. The stuff They gained/used was free: critters, fish, fruits, vegetables, nuts, seed, sun, soil, rain, ores. It was the meaningful energy expended that gave "value" to the stuff: the killing, fishing, picking, tilling, weeding, harvesting, mining, transporting.
Add abundantly what money represents - energy - and the need for money (and the control of others it affords) in all its forms (barter, trade, work exchange, coin, bills, electronic funds...) will dissipate and what is left is free.
Add robots to do all the necessary jobs no One wants to do to free energy, and Humans will be freed to follow Their bliss - within the three Laws:
Do not willfully hurt or kill another Being
Do not willfully take or damage another Being's property
Do not willfully defraud another Being
(A Being (cap the "B") is sentient, sapient; animals are beings)
Waste would be virtually eliminated: supermarkets presently throw out hundreds of thousands of tons of food a month! Distributing by need and not profit will end this waste. Products would be made to last instead of being designed to break so as to ensure future sales. Theft-protecting packaging would be unnecessary. And so on.
Organic farming would be prized and GMO (genetically modified organisms) would be eliminated.
Motive for war will be virtually eliminated. With no profit motive for war suppliers and "infrastructure rebuilders," wars will not be instigated to ensure profits.
Poverty will not exist.
Hunger will be eliminated.
Education (at all levels) will be free for all.
Replace the work "ethic" (a slave's ethic: enrich the rich with Your Human energy) with a Betterment Ethic and the Humans who better things will be paid in appreciation, status, name-recognition and Self-satisfaction, the new "coin."
Create a central website where problems can be brought up locally and People can “vote” to bump a problem up, down, show apathy by not voting, and chime in with solutions (which can be cheered and booed). Issues will drop off after the original poster indicates that the problem has been resolved or withdrawn, or there has been no activity after, say, six months (that is not set in stone). Social responsibility will be defined as spending 15 minutes a day examining issues on this site.
Also, issues with some set number of bumps up will be considered issues that need a wider awareness and go to regional sections. From there, continental, perhaps, and then global, as more are needed to be involved in solving the problem. Problems will beget the awareness to solve them.
Without money as a motive, problems will be solved more creatively, directly, harmoniously, and within the three Laws.
Leaders of the moment will emerge from this to solve problems as they arise.
Open-source all public works programming. This allows for many to make suggestions for betterment, and ensures that no one will create outside the three Laws. It also eliminates “back doors,” and other surreptitious software segments that bog down the clean functioning of the program. Without money as a motive, programmers will be proud to offer Their work for scrutinization and use, openly and freely. Status will be gained for creating the best programs.
Though this will not create a utopia, it will be vastly better than what We now have, in this scarcity-defined system, on this planet.
________________
I have found many who have said They would sign, but They fear being "put on a list." This is the very thing the power elite count on. I say... Cast away fear! Stand and be counted as One who would oppose Them. In the long run, We will overcome - IF We stop allowing fear to be used as Their weapon against Us!
So... To any who read this, ask Yourself, "Will I empower the power elite to control Me with fear?" And then give strong consideration to signing this petition.
Statistics: Posted by Amaterasu — Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:01 am
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There is no doubt in my mind that the death of a battery is the deterioration of the positive plates. The negative plates are likely to remain servicable for many, many years because they are basically solikd lead. But the positive plates are built using lead oxide on a lattice made from a hardened form of lead - but it doesn't last long.
On a practical note, I am sure it is easily possible to keep an SLI battery cranking for a decade - and maybe more. Though towards the end it'd better be on a car with an engine that starts easily because slowly those positive plates rot, and bit-by-bit those positive plates have less effective surface area.
The positive plates rot from the bottom up. I suppose this indicates it's probably due to the relatively high concentration of sulphuric acid in the bottoms of the cells due to the higher specific gravity than the less concentrated electrolyte nearer the surface. Stirring by applying a controlled over-charge occasionally might help this situation, as might manually moving the battery so as to mix the electrolyte. I gather some of the most expensive and longest-lasting lead/acid batteries are fitted with a pump which continuously moves and mixes the electrolyte, and that this pump is always 'on.' And those long^lasting batteries will have positive plates which are far-sturdier than the crap batteries mostly in the shops nowadays.
I am sure that desulphating the battery is never a bad thing. Desulphating using (my method) of pulsing will mean the battery will remain useable until those positive plates corrode away - and that could well mean a decade's use or more. So all-in-all desulphating is a great idea. an arbitrary 'battery' will have the life of two, three, four or maybe even more than the normal if it is periodically desulphated and the cells equalised through a controlled over-charge.
Batteries where I am are particularly suited to desulphating because so many people here only use the car for short hops or infrequently use the car, so they tend to sulphate. Batteries in the US, for example, where the car is used day-in and day-out on long drives - are unlikely to be a good candidates for desulphating because the problem with such batteries is likely not sulphation so much as the batteries being physically being worn-out!
- And to an extent, the mixing of (alleged) maintenance-free batteries and wet-batteries is causing some problems:-
M.Free batteries are charged to only 14.1 (or so) volts. This is not a full charge, and inevitably sulphation will arise as a result. More cars now seem to have the battery-regulating circuits set to suit MF batteries. - Though if you fully charge a MF battery it'll soon gas itself dry.
Me? I make holes in MF batteries and replenish the electrolyte with distilled water and they last probably a decade. But most everyone will just throw them away because the process of replenishing a MF battery is hazardous, heavy and dirty. (I can't blame anyone deciding they don't want to fool with a potentially explosive lump of toxic liquid and metal).
The batteries in the US where desulphating would be well-suited (I think) would be special batteries which are not available easily or cheaply that are sitting on under-used earth-moving equipment or classic cars - and boats are likely an area where desulphating would work well.
In my experience commercial desulphators are as good as useless. You need a really good whack with a sharp-edged pulse to do the desulphating in a reasonable length of time (my opinion of course).
* In a pinch you can try a spoonful of EDTA in each cell and afterwards manually adjust the electrolyte to compensate for the loss of effective (non-bonded) sulphur the EDTA rips out and sinks to the bottom. Also you can try a bit of mag-sulphate to get some more life out of a knackered battery. Both the above will poison your battery, but it'll do its job for a bit longer - and that'a a good thing.
I'm not at all disappointed to have found a limit on getting old batteries back in service - far from it! Pulsing to remove the sulphates will mean at least double the life from your batteries at least, and it doesn't cost much in the way of electricity to do it.
Statistics: Posted by mael — Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:18 pm
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Statistics: Posted by gandolflundgren — Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:07 pm
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More plates basically allows me to push more amperage. More amperage = more production. That's all. You can start with as few or as many plates as you like. I just went with this configuration because that number of plates fit well into the PVC tubing. I am a practical kind of guy and I'm not going to buy stuff oversized just to prove a point. I built for practicality and that's why it worked well for me. Let me know if you have trouble finding the SS plates because I still know where you can get them. Any good machine shop should be able to sheer them for you in standard 3x6 or 1.5 x 6 size etc...
I was not running straight hydroxy. I was merely boosting my car with my hydroxy. I need to get back into testing that in my new vehicle now. I never had a working odometer in the old dodge shadow so it kind of sucked for all the work it was. I never got to see if it made a difference in my mileage or not.
Statistics: Posted by Chris — Fri Sep 30, 2011 11:46 pm
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I was wondering why so many cells, are you trying to run straight Hyd. it looks like the way you have your plates fixed there working very well for you, and thanks for giving me the info on the dry cells and running them in a vehicle, im going to go with a wet cell but i wont have as many plates as you do, also where is a good place to get the SS plates just in case i cant get them from a friend, im going to have to put this on the back burner for awhile and get back to looking for a job, ill buy parts a little at a time as money permits, thanks for your help, ill keep reading here and get as much info as i can, Irish.
Statistics: Posted by Irishtexan — Fri Sep 30, 2011 8:15 pm
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Oh well, I have covered this topic many times before and still maintain that non-submerged series cells are most applicable in stationary projects. You can't have these things in a car sloshing around and get good performance. I have always worked with my parallel plate designs in fully submerged cells for vehicles. Look at my v6 Electrolyzer project for a better understanding: http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Pr ... lyzer%20v6
Read the whole project carefully then ask whatever you need to ask.
Statistics: Posted by Chris — Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:07 am
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I assume you're talking a non-submerged series cell?
Yes i was, is a submerged cell better, again im just learning so tell me what you think is better.
Ill get the SS plates in a couple of weeks, im going to go see my friend who's son is a sheet metal worker, im going to run off some pictures of dry cells to show them so they will better understand, thanks again for the help, Irish.
Statistics: Posted by Irishtexan — Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:16 pm
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You're referring to a dry cell. I assume you're talking a non-submerged series cell?
I played with vacuum a bit but it was problematic. I would start with normally aspirated atmospheric pressure. Let it be slightly positive pressure. Once you are good at messing with that you can switch to vacuum testing. It's another beast entirely. It will flash "boil" your bubbler and cells in an instant and draw a ton of water through your lines if you're not careful. Doing it with vacuum would be best for efficiency but it's much more challenging to do properly vs just letting the cell push positive pressure.
Statistics: Posted by Chris — Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:57 pm
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