Thanks for your assistance. The reason I am using a variable resistor is so I can control the voltage. If I use one battery the voltage is below the 14.3 volts my car runs at. If I use the charger, which puts out 15v I still have to use the resistor to get the required voltage drop to achieve 14.2v.
I ran the unit this morning cold at 10C, 20% s/h 14.2v, started at 2.5 amps.
Where you live the temp might not get as low as it does here in Sydney, last night down to 9C. As you are aware the temp makes a big difference to current flow.
I then went to a 28% solution 84gms s/h 216 water which makes a 300gm mix.
Here are the results with temp rise. 28%
TIME VOLTS TEMP AMPS
11.20 14.2 12 3
11.30 14.212.5 4
11.47 14.220 6
11.52 14.223 7
12.03 14.225 10
12.05 14.226 12
12.08 14.227 15
THE TABLE WONT PRINT BUT THE AMPS WENT TOP TO BOTTOM
3,4,6,7,10,12,15
However a problem I have encountered when using concentrations higher than 24% is that the black coating that accumulates on one face of the plates comes off causing the water to go a dark blackish colour. The SS steel I have been using is 304, which gets a black to brown coating unlike 316 that goes a golden colour. This happened again with this mix. So I have gone back to 24%. Will let you know how I fair.
All the above were on the charger.
I then went to 2 bat in series through the var resistor to get 14.2v which was straight DC.
The temp when I switched to the batteries was 32C surprisingly at 14.2v the current was only 10 amps the time was 12.20 but by 12.27 the temp had gone to 32C and current to 15amps.
If you compare the table above with the charger putting out 14.2v the current was 15 amps at 27C.
It appears that to reach the same current on straight DC requires a higher temp than the pulsing DC on the charger?
Maybe I wont have this problem when the overnight temp stays above 20C.
Regards Warren.Statistics: Posted by weggl — Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:54 am
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