kettle c.2003 Project Page 1

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kettle c.2003 Project Page 1

This Website is Created and Maintained by chris--at--OUPower--dot--com (Fix the address for it to work!)
This Project was last updated on: September 25, 2006 10:37am v7.01

WARNING! Many, if not all of the projects described within these pages, contain dangerous and potentially fatal consequences if you do not exercise proper precautions and follow standard safety procedures. The owner of this site takes no responsibility for injury sustained by anyone attempting to duplicate or utilize any of the information on this site. The information here is strictly for Educational Purposes! -USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

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Project Description:
leave a message for me at http://oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=358

my 4 plate kettle ... made in 2002 and the controller in 2003 before i knew about the 2v water thing, so should work well of an old 5v mainframe 5v/100A computer power supply with only two of the plates wired ... will run warm off 12v/14v.

was always to scared to ignite its output, but have filled lots of balloons with it with 2 minute dynamite fuses and blown them up which is fun (i go to my friends farm ... he has a dynamite licence)

if i were to follow chris' thinking, i should build another 5 or 6 cells, and wire the 4 plates as two parallel pairs

the elctronics (my first successful electronics project) evolved after i tried replicating the "spirit ot ma'at" circuit diagrams which didn't work for me ... i made a mosfet version but the mosfets kept melting, so i had to go for the most indestructable mosfet (150A continuous) i could find ... so all a bit of a learning curve

my background; 13yrs schooling; 5 years university (law degree + 2/3 arts; mainly in social history), working part time in an autoelectricians (cleaner boy, rebuilding starters, generators, alternators) and in a speaker factory; then working full time as a technical assistant to a couple of firms of patent attorneys for 4 years, qualified as an attorney; 1988 stock market crashed caused career change to computer animation with an artist friend, specializing in 3D.cg tv commerials, now working for national television broadcaster looking after 30 computer artists

PVC pipe is the central former/mount and plate mounting rods, the pipe i actually ended up using had a slight increase in diameter at the upper (non-drilled) end (a pipe extension); the holes at the bottom allow water to move into the core of the pipe where its pressure can be monitored by a pressure gauge

200 or so rubber washers i punched out by hand with a punch set and hammer; next time i will get a gasket maker to make them if i cant find the size i want

14mmOD x 6mmID x 1.8mm from memory, spacing between the plates is a theoritcal 1.75mm

plates and other parts prior to rolling; plates are over 1000mm long and about 125mm(5inches) wide.
material is stainless shim having a thickness of 0.25mm(10thou of an inch), if i went thicker bending around the PVC central mount would be very difficult, you can use a feeler gauge to get an idea of how pliable stainless shim is for a given thickness .... handle this material carefully cause it likes cutting human skin

work out the total surface area
100cm (length) x 12.5cm (height) x 2 (sides per plate) x 4 (plates) = 10,000 square centimetres or 1550 square inches

i had the plates laser cut, because the accurate location of the mounting holes is critical to keep the spirally plates circular, and drilling stainless is quite hard - even when the material is this thin
i wrote a little program in 3dstudio maxscript to calculate how far apart the holes should be from one another; they start close, and progressively get further and further apart.
see http://www.oupower.com/index.php?dir=_Other_Peoples_Projects/AntDavison/spiral%20maths

laser cutting was about us$80, so much cheaper than you might imagine. the laser cutters will like you if you supply them an autocad file, where any circles are true circles and not made up of thousands of little lines as this is hard on the laser cutting machine. they use that file to program the cutter, firstly cutting the mounting holes, then cutting out the shape itself.

the raw material was 300mm/12" wide, but 25mm/1" on each of the longest edges was lost as the laser cutters needed to weight those edges of the shim to keep the material flat during cutting.

i got my 0.25mm shim stock from an auto parts wholesaler who had enormous rolls of the stuff, i had go through a metal broker, as the wholesaler wouldn't sell direct ... if you live in the states, you can buy it through the internet; an example of a seller is http://www.toolsandsupplies.com/stainlessshimstock1.asp

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i made a model out of sheet plastic first to determine how difficult the whole deal would be :-)
i did the artwork on a computer, printed out with a large format inkjet printer (inkjets are much more accurate than laser printers), and spray glued it to some thin plastic sheet, to create a mock up.

dont make the inner core too small a diameter ... the smaller the inner diameter the harder it is going to be to get that inner bit nice and neat

detail of electrode posts prior to being folded over itself for mechanical strength; the corners of the posts were bent later to lock the 6mm bolts in place, so they wouldnt move too much when a nut on the other side of the post was tightened

Click here to continue Drilling into Projects from AntDavison

Click Here to Re-Display the Main Project Page

This Website is Created and Maintained by chris--at--OUPower--dot--com (Fix the address for it to work!)
This Project was last updated on: September 25, 2006 10:37am v7.01

WARNING! Many, if not all of the projects described within these pages, contain dangerous and potentially fatal consequences if you do not exercise proper precautions and follow standard safety procedures. The owner of this site takes no responsibility for injury sustained by anyone attempting to duplicate or utilize any of the information on this site. The information here is strictly for Educational Purposes! -USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Click Here to go to my YouTube Channel!!

Click Here to go to our NEW Facebook Discussion Group! This is replacing the old Discussion Board!

Click Here to go to our ARCHIVED Discussion Boards.

Please consider donating to help support this website!