Ravi's Meyer Replication- Tap Water to H2

[ravzz]

Alright guys make a note of this and save it some place

The conditioning process below was given to me by Dave Lawton and its what I followed religiously for months to reach the outputs. Consider this as the holy grail like I did and still do...

1. Donot use any resistance on the negative side when conditioning the pipes.

2. Start at 0.5 Amps on freq gen and switch off after 25 mins for 30 mins

3. Goto 1.0 Amps for 20 min and stop for 30 min

4. Goto 1.5 Amps for 15 min and stop for 20 min

5. Goto 2.0 Amps for 10 min and stop for 20 min

6. Goto 2.5 Amps for 5 min and stop for 15 min

7. Goto 3.0 Amps for 120 to 150 secs. need to check if WFC getting hot...if it does you need to reduce the time.

AFTER THE 7 STEPS ABOVE LET THE WFC STAND FOR ATLEAST AN HOUR BEFORE YOU START ALL OVER AGAIN. I used tap water for conditioning and no vinegar or any additives.... I donot know if adding something might work or not.

You would hardly see any gas generation at the beginning but it makes a lot of brown muck.....change the water after every cycle initially. DONOT touch the tubes with bare hands if the tube ends need to be cleaned of muck use a brush but donot touch!! As per my experience the brown muck if left in water for the next cycle heats up the water and you need to avoid this.

Then you see the reduction in generation of the brown stuff over a period of time and at a point the pipes dont make any brown stuff atall. You would have had very good generation of gas by now. You get a whitish powdery coat on the surfaces. Never touch the pipes with bare hands once this comes on.

DO THE CONDITIONING IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA OR PREFERRABLY CLOSE THE TOP AND VENT THE GAS OUT IN THE OPEN.

AS THE WFC IS LEFT ON FOR QUITE SOMETIME EVEN SMALL AMOUNT OF GENERATION CAN GET ACCUMULATED IN A CONSTRICTED SPACE AND COULD BE A HAZARD.



The above process to be done after annealing the pipes....see to it that no oxide formation is left on the pipes...use a detergent to wash off the pipes and rinse them thoroughly with fresh water.....assemble the setup including the leads and base.....finally flush the pipes with lots of fresh water......donot touch the pipes with bare hands after this.......


Good Luck and happy conditioning......RAVI



I'll be away for a day or two....will get to more explaining after that.

[ravzz]

Thanks Bob been an avid silent follower of your work for a long time now....you have a great thing going keep up the good work!!

Bob its time we did something about the environmental mess the world is in.....its accelerating by the year and it wouldnt be long before that the powers be would realize that most of these changes are irreversible ......Vanishing Glaciers......melting polar caps.....Europe has seen the hottest summers in living memory.......and now Asia is going through the worst floods in the living memory.......we are heading for a disaster and have already reached a point of no return with the fossil fuel addiction.......time we make ourselves count....by helping others to make this technology feasible and easy to replicate......whatever small contribution.....no matter how much ever small to improve the air we breathe would go a long way for our childrens future......


We need people to know this side of science before its too late.......look at the change in the environment in the last 100 years......in the garb of development were ruining the world we live in for the future generations and we are shown a picture of development as prosperity.....actual fact being more the prosperity more we ruin the environment for our creature comforts......its a vicious cycle....we could introduce the alternate science at places where its hurting the environment the most atleast in a small way....

Bob lets see how they take this experiment and what they make of it...I wouldnt be surprised if some hooter comes onto the forum and starts rubbishing the work to make atleast a few people stay away from experimenting this setup....

I'm just hoping that the risk im taking in teaching people how to make this expt work wouldnt be for nothing!! I've been through some harassment before and can go through some more if its for the greater good.

Its time!! like you said Bob!

[passion1]

Ravzz

Thank you for your detailed explanation of the conditioning process.
All of us (and the whole world) is VERY grateful!!
Looking forward to your next instructions with anticipation!

[Goofy]

The brown material is a result of the influence of the electro pulses.
You can clean the electrodes an keep this effect away for some time, but it will come back after some time.


Note: stanley's injector accepted water, the injector was preloaded with just enough water, electrolyzed (due to the low volume of water very fast.... and Hydrogen injected in the engine.
Only a computer is able to keep timing exact enough and that's why he was looking for people to shrink it to small sizes compared to microcontroller boards that can be found in any modern car.

[kevinsatterfield]

Hey Ravzz, its been brought to my attention that some ppl have'nt seen this site so I'll post it here and maybe it can inspire you on this stuff...

[weggl]

On the question of plate conditioning what are the thoughts on citric acid passivation, for the removal of iron from the plate surface as in the link below prior to conditioning?
Warren


http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/100304.html
_________________
WARREN EGGLETON

[ravzz]

A lot of people have been asking me for the circuit I used on the youtube mails.


The link to the circuit is below:

http://panaceauniversity.org/D14.pdf


The circuit given on page 7 with the inductors is what gives the highest efficiencies. The inductor on both positive and negative is a must.

Once youve built the circuit...it would be best to make the WFC as per the pipe sizes mentioned in D14 to avoid any setbacks.

[ravzz]

Hi Weggl,

I know about the passivation of stainless steels.


Like I said before I dont know if it would work for this process.......even if it does I dont know if you could get the same efficiencies.


Its a short time process so you need to passivate the pipes once they are assembled so that you dont disturb the layer formed which is usually less than a micron thick. If this doesnt work you could always revert back to the regular conditioning process but you will have to disassemble the whole setup and sand paper the outside of the inner tube and the inside of the outer tube to get rid of the passivated surface and expose a fresh surface then reassemble and start.


Let me know if this works.


PLEASE NOTE THAT POLISHED TUBES ARE NOT TO BE USED IN MAKING THE WFC


If they are the only ones you can find make sure they are not Nickel plated or Hard Chrome plated pipes and if they are Plain SS 304L or 316L but polished you could always use a sand paper.


You can use most of the 300 series Nickel-Chromium Steels but 316L would be the most preferrable and next would be 304L.......never go for 310 as this has the highest resistivity among the 300 series. Avoid Inconel grade pipes aswell.


Use ONLY SEAMLESS PIPES and not seam welded.

[kevinsatterfield]

you might even be able to screw one of these into a pipe at the bottom...ther so many things its popostrious to not try diffrent things.

http://www.enginebrain.com/#work

[ravzz]

I remember watching on one of Stan Meyer Videos where they mention the Output to be over 1700% faradays....I guess there's more work needed to be done in this direction.

Dave's unit was 250% OU mine looks a little higher....one of the reasons I think is because my unit is comparitively bigger 9" length 9 tubes compared to Dave's 5" length 6 tubes. Stans was 18"length 9 tubes...double the size of my WFC.

Is there a possibility that some thing like the Joe's Cell aether stuff is happening here?? Even Joe's cell takes a long time to condition and even that produces brown muck and doesnt do so after a while.....both have concentric tubes.. Needs very low amps...there are similarities....

Is there a possibility that the extra work is being done by Aether?

Is joe's cell conditioning similar to the one mentioned above??

[ravzz]

There is another difference that needs to be noted compared to Dave's Replication. I didnt remember the exact gap between the pipes till patrick just asked me what were the differences between my setup....sat down and calculated....

The gap in between the pipes was:

Outer Pipe OD : 25.317 mm
Thickness : 14 SWG or 2.032 mm

Outer Pipe ID : 25.317 - (2.032 x2) = 21.253mm


Inner Pipe OD : 19.930 mm
Thickness : 14 SWG or 2.032 mm

Gap is 1.323mm ( 21.253 - 19.930 )

and this adjusted to both the sides as the inside pipe is centered is

1.323/2 = 0.6615 mm on either sides of the inner tube.

So effectively the gap between the pipes is less than 0.670 mm

I went for a lesser gap by increasing the thickness of the outer tube.
If you go through Stans Canadian Patent he mentions that the lesser
the gap between the pipes more the efficiency

I had a lot of difficulty in the alignment of pipe as they were
shorting. Had to get them straightened on pipe alignment machine.
Wouldnt advice people without engineering skills to go for this small
a gap.

The higher output of my setup could be due to the smaller gap aswell.

[ravzz]

Hi everyone

Sometime ago Patick Kelley had suggested on shortening the 316L leads to the WFC so im onto it.....i've already changed about 6 leads and now two of them have started to leak water from the WFC.....need to change the rest of them and see how many of them start leaking.......seal them up and test the WFC.......should take me a few days for this whole process.......will keep you all updated.

I havent seen any postings about people saying that they are replicating this...or anything of the sort...

c'mon guys.....even I need some feedback if someone is trying to do something with my postings....or theres no point in going through all this for no reason but just for the archives sake....I need some pepping aswell...

[Maintenanceman]

I would love to expirement with it ..but being im on a tight budget ...what is the estimated cost of the parts for the circut?And on a another notee would anyone be willing to make just the power circut ..minus the alternator and motor?If so plz mail me at eatmyshorts4fun@hotmail.com.
I am a beginner electronics guy and doubt my capability and/or efficiency in making the "box" but the hardware ,assembly,and proper testing i am capable of and can get readily.I have been working on Alaska's process for awhile.It has shown me alot but i like the idea of using plain tap water vs. hazardous chemicals .I have tried the plate cell design and even boosted a 2.3 L ford engine using it...but it was on a boat and i couldnt get any "real" numbers being its all but impossible to figure out MPG when its being used on a waterway...

[Maintenanceman]

It did boost low end horsepower and top speed ,as well as idled alot smoother when the booster was working.But because of the Amperage needed to run it i ended up killing my batteries all the time so i took it out..,Even with a 1.5 Farad power cap in line with the booster.But i also didnt have any frequency control etc,was strictly brute force.

[kevinsatterfield]

"Dave's unit was 250% OU mine looks a little higher....one of the reasons I think is because my unit is comparitively bigger 9" length 9 tubes compared to Dave's 5" length 6 tubes. Stans was 18"length 9 tubes...double the size of my WFC. "

I dunno, according to some ppl Stans stuff cant be scaled up...LOL