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OUPower.com • View topic - heating problems

heating problems

This forum is for discussing anything related to electrolysis and electrolyzer designs.

heating problems

Postby rampage263 » Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:20 pm

i just made 2 smack boosters ,,well sort of like his design,both are running hot ,one is 10 plates 316ss 2 by 8 inches spaced one eight apart .the 2 middle are neg. the 2 outer are positve with 3 neutral between each side temp is running 140 degree with car battery on bench and almost straight distilled water with very little lye in 3 inch pvc
second one was 7 plate with same config as above and plates in 4 inch running at 180 degree ,steaming hot
also i cross sanded all plates .they both make a lot of gas but the heat is too much
any help would be appreciated .once heat issue is solved then to the car we go
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Postby huck » Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:24 pm

try running it with NO Lye... see what happens...
any way to figure your current draw?

i.e. what do you have it hooked up to? a battery charger? a 12v car battery? your alternator? etc?
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Postby rampage263 » Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:46 pm

i almost no lye a pinch to a gallon of water ,and hooked to a car battery on bench .and battery charger only use when battery goes down ,what am i doing wrong to get this kind of heat ,now when put under the car hood i guessing it will get really hot
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Smack's Booster

Postby SeaMonkey » Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:41 pm

The Smack's can have a severe heating problem if it isn't constructed "exactly" as the plans recommend.

In order to minimize leakage currents around the "neutral" plates it is important that they be spaced and paired according to the plans.

The spacing of the plates should be like this:

Pos.Neut......Neut.Neut......Neut.Neut......Neut.Neg.Neut......Neut.Neut......Neut.Neut......Neut.Pos

If all the Neutral Plates are equally spaced you'll have too much current leakage around the plates through the electrolyte solution which will cause the high temperatures.

To control the excessive heating and enhance the efficiency of the unit, it is necessary to use a MosFet Pulse Width Modulator capable of switching up to 40 Amperes at a 10 KHz to 20 KHz rate. Following the PWM a home-made inductor must be installed in the feed wire to the Smack's, and a High Current Schottky Diode rated at 40 Volts/60 Amperes installed across the wiring as a Free Wheeling Diode to make a high efficiency DC to DC converter.

This circuit will reduce the current demand from your automotive electrical system and increase the efficiency of the Smack's production of HydrOxy.

If you have electrical/electronic skills you can make the entire unit for a total cost of approximately $15 or less, depending upon where you purchase the necessary parts. Or, if you have a friend who is able to perform the electronic construction and could assemble it for you you'd save a bundle instead of paying the high price for an already assembled unit from most suppliers.

The circuit is really very simple and very efficient, and enables smooth control of HydrOxy generation by varying the Pulse Width with the Adjustment Potentiometer.
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Postby chemelec » Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:51 pm

If you Email Me, the Word "ELECTRONIC" MUST appear in the Subject Line.

My NEW Website is:
http://chemelec.com
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Postby rampage263 » Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:04 pm

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Postby chemelec » Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:11 pm

If you Email Me, the Word "ELECTRONIC" MUST appear in the Subject Line.

My NEW Website is:
http://chemelec.com
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Postby biggeorge » Mon Jun 16, 2008 6:10 am

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Postby Dngspot » Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:31 am

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Postby a3holerman » Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:19 am

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Postby rampage263 » Mon Jun 16, 2008 7:44 pm

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Postby chemelec » Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:52 pm

If you Email Me, the Word "ELECTRONIC" MUST appear in the Subject Line.

My NEW Website is:
http://chemelec.com
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Postby rampage263 » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:37 pm

i tried the plate config that chemlec said with p-nu-nu-nu-nu-n no real gas output compared to the smack config ,but not heating issues either
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Postby huck » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:49 pm

Possibly Make just a "HALF-Smack Cell". (p-nu-nu-nu-ne) But still really for 8 volts

did you try that one?
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Postby huck » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:51 pm

also...try 'GOOP'ing the edges to prevent that current leakage all around the sides(likely won't help much but it might help a bit)
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